A Taste of Italy - Southern Tuscany and Umbria
Stan Rose, June 2002

"That's Italian!" An expression used by almost everyone, Italian or not to describe our perception of Italy or Italian. Each of us has his or her own ideas, but some of the more common place images are: Talking, with your hands, "stuffing" your face with a heaping bowl of pasta, a dominating mother, dark shirts and ties, and an inept Mussolini, joining the "wrong side".

I grew up with an Italian-American Neighbor, with indeed an "old-world grandmother" living with them. She did rule the roost, and was most revered by famiglia. I was also around during WWII when Mussolini made Italy our enemy.

"That's Italian!" has a whole new meaning for me after my 18 days touring Italy. Mussolini is revered for planting thousands of umbrella pines, especially around Rome. There would be no Vatican State if Mussolini didn't sell the site to the Pope for 26 million.

The food is great! Pizza is thin crust and without tomato sauce (Tuscan), Pasta dishes are more popular than Antipasto. Fried Artichokes are the best in the world. Dining is not rushed and there is a slow food movement in all of Italy.

Sites, sites and more sites. Excavation going on next to new construction. Buildings built in 200 and renovated in 1200. Churches, villas, caves, wells, beautiful vistas, and on and on, and on.

Shopping, particularly for leather, gold, cameos, and olive oil is fun and a bargain. And of course there is wine. I must admit, that for many years I thought little of Italian wines.

During my early days in the Wine Industry there were many scandals coming out of Italy. The famous Ox-blood incidents of the late 60's; Excess carbonation of Lambrusco in the early 80's; some DOC (& DOCG) games along the way and probably a few scandals I haven't heard of. Putting in expensive poorly made wine in fancy bottles was indeed the way to sell Italian wine in the 60's and early 70's in the United States. This is not the case today. My eyes, nose and palate will indeed attest to great well made and even better priced wines.

Some things you should know in general if you are planning to visit Italy with a hint of wine on your mind.

Don't look for Pinot Grigio, the Italians don't drink it! Over 70% is exported and Pinot Grigio not from Alto Adige is not very good.

Instead, for white wines buy the local vino de tavoli, such as Bianco whatever place you are at. In Orvieto, of course you want an Orvieto Classico. You will find some Soave on wine lists, but the most popular White Wine in major locations is Vernaccia.

The other element that struck me is you will see more labels in Italy that are sold in US than labels in France that are sold in the US. Some examples are: Falesco Vitiano from Umbria, Argiano from Montalcino, Certrbaiona, Bigi, Aziena La Diacceta, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, and of course the big guys, Antinori, Rufino, and Villa Banfi.

Villa Banfi is most honored in Montalcino. They gambled on exporting their fine Tuscan wines to the US about 30 years ago and actually put Montalcino on the map. Villa Banfi does exist just outside of the town of Montalcino. For a real treat book dinner at the Osteria del Vecchio Castello, just outside of Villa Banfi looking down at the Villa.

A couple of other good quality wines are those of Cecilia Beretta and Lunelli. I could go on, but this is a news letter, not a book. Besides, I need an excuse to return next year. Ciao!